10621 N. 103 Ave.

GENERAL BUILDING AND SITE INFORMATION

Any acceptance or use of this inspection report shall constitute acceptance of all the terms and standards set forth by the state of Arizona board of technical registration Standards of Professional Practice adopted by the Arizona chapter of the American Society of Home Inspectors. The conditions noted/stated in this inspection report are for the sole purpose of identifying conditions which exist at the time of this Inspection. We cannot, and do not imply or guess how long any item will serve the purpose it was designed or manufactured for. Home warranty insurance is for the unforeseen future failure of the building fixtures, systems and components.

Inspection Items

1.0

BUILDING CHARACTERISTICS
Comments: Inspected
The home being inspected is eleven months old, therefore the builder is responsible for repairs associated with the construction of the residence since there is a warranty in place. There are numerous flaws in the construction of this home associated with the application of materials, and methods used. The home was occupied at the time of this inspection, but nevertheless we make every attempt possible to evaluate the entire home.

1.1

GENERAL EXTERIOR SITE DRAINAGE
Comments: Repair or Replace
The right side front of the home needs the landscape rock and soil lowered so there is a minimum of six inches of clearance, from the bottom of the stucco to grade, with a slope away from the home. There should be a gradual swale from the front of the block fence to the road, so rain water is able to drain correctly from the back yard. The back yard (right side) needs soil added so rain water is not standing, and is able to freely drain through the holes at the bottom of the block fence. Moisture next to a foundation will have an adverse affect on your home, expansive soil could damage the foundation, and is an invitation for wood destroying insects.

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1.2

LANDSCAPING NEXT TO BUILDING
Comments: Inspected
When you have all the landscaping installed we recommend trees be planted at least 8 feet from your home. Many new homes have small trees planted to close when the home is just completed, and in a few years the branches of the trees begin to cause damage to the home from wind moving the branches against the roof, siding, and fascia of the home.

1.3

CONCRETE DRIVEWAY, WALKWAYS, PATIOS, ENTRYWAYS, CONDITION
Comments: Repair or Replace
The concrete driveway has two significant cracks, in sections of the concrete. The builder is responsible for the exterior concrete surfaces until the warranty expires, the two sections of concrete will need to be replaced. The other walkways and patio concrete surfaces were in acceptable condition, at the time of this inspection.

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1.4

FENCE AND GATE(S), CONDITION
Comments: Repair or Replace
Gate entering rear yard needs auto-closure mechanism adjusted or replaced, we recommend repairing this immediately because there is a pool in the back yard. The state of Arizona requires all gates and doors entering yards where pools are present to have self-closing devices present and operational.

1.5

IRRIGATION SYSTEMS
Comments: Inspected
Operated manually and randomly checking drips/ bubblers/ spray heads (not all were visible). The system functioned properly. Watering devices need occasional inspection by the homeowner for continued proper operation.

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STRUCTURAL LOAD BEARING COMPONENTS AND BUILDING MATERIALS USED

All structures depend on the soil under them for support, but soil is not uniform. Some soils can expand to twice their original volume with the influx of water and move structures with relative ease, raising and lowering them fracturing slabs and other concrete surfaces. Expansive soils have accounted for more structural damage than most natural disasters. Regardless, foundations are not uniform, and conform to the structural standard of the year they were built. In accordance with Arizona standards of practice, we identify foundation types and look for any evidence of structural deficiencies. However, cracks or deteriorated surfaces in foundations are common. In fact it is rare to find foundation that was not cracked or deteriorated in some way, or a slab foundation that did not have some cracks concealed under the carpeting. Most of these cracks are related to the curing process or common settling, including some wide ones that generally contour the footings, but others could be more structurally significant and reveal the presence of expansive soils which can cause continual movement. I will certainly report any suspicious cracks if they are visible at this inspection.

Inspection Items

2.0

FOUNDATION TYPE: THE STRUCTURAL CONDITION
Comments: Inspected
The foundation of this home is poured concrete, no concerns were present at the time of inspection. Minor cracks are common in concrete products and the condition of this foundation is considered typical. This is associated with settlement and shrinkage.

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2.1

FLOOR TYPE: THE VISIBLE STRUCTURAL CONDITION
Comments: Inspected
Floors in the home are constructed of poured concrete. The conditions are acceptable with regard to the structural integrity of the concrete slab on grade floor system. There are floor coverings present. There was no visual evidence of a concern such as major wall or ceiling cracks which would tell us that a problem may exist.

2.2

EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR LOAD BEARING WALLS: THE STRUCTURAL CONDITION
Comments: Inspected
Wall structure of home is constructed of wood framing materials. The condition was acceptable with regard to the structural integrity of the wall system. There was no visual evidence of concerns with the framing or methods used in the construction of the home.

2.3	CEILING MATERIAL: THE STRUCTURAL CONDITION Comments: Inspected The ceiling structure of the home is constructed with an engineered wood truss system and sheetrock coverings. There were no concerns structurally with the ceilings.

2.4

ROOF STRUCTURE TYPE: THE STRUCTURAL CONDITION
Comments: Inspected
The roof structure of this home is constructed with engineered wood trusses with oriented strand board (OSB) attached to the trusses for roof sheathing. Visually inspecting the condition of the components in the attic, I did not find no concerns present.

2.5	POSTS, BEAMS, COLUMNS: THE STRUCTURAL CONDITION Comments: Inspected Stucco covered wood framed columns supporting patio roof structures were in acceptable condition structurally.

The residence has a slab foundation. These foundations vary considerably from older ones which have no reinforcing steel or moisture barrier to newer ones which may have both. The inspection of the slab conforms to industry standards. We inspect the visible portion of the concrete on the outside for any evidence of cracks or structural deficiencies, but we but do not lift carpeting to look for cracks or moisture penetration, and we do not use any specialized instruments to establish elevations or confirm differential movement. Many slabs are built or move out of level, but the average person may not become aware of this until there is a difference in movement of more than one inch in twenty feet, which some jurisdictions regard as acceptable. Many slabs are found to contain cracks when the carpeting is removed, including ones which are quite wide at the contour of the foundation walls. They typically result from shrinkage and have little structural significance. There is no absolute standard for evaluating cracks less than 1/4 of an inch which do not exhibit vertical or horizontal displacement, and are generally not regarded as a structural concern. Although they typically do result from common shrinkage, they can also be caused by deficient concrete, deterioration through time, seismic activity, adverse soil conditions, and poor drainage. The best method to prevent slab or foundation problems is to have all exterior grades sloped away from the building.

EXTERIOR OF BUILDING, MATERIALS USED AND CONDITION

Stucco covered homes in Arizona will have minor cracks at areas like window corners or where a change in the direction of the home framing is. Minor cracks are found on All homes which have an exterior insulated finish system or commonly known as stucco. Shrinkage, expansion and settlement continually occur on all homes, as a result you will have minor cracks. When cracks open to the point where rain water could enter in back of the stucco we will recommend caulking the cracks and touching them up with paint. When water does have the opportunity to enter the finish other unforeseen issues could develop inside the walls of your home. If we recommend caulking stucco cracks it is not for cosmetic issues, it is for the protection of the finish and the interior walls of the structure. Water generally enters around window frames because of the metal frames and stucco act like an expansion joint, separation may occur. Large cracks in a wall finish should be caulked as soon as possible, to prevent or stop a possible concern.

Inspection Items

3.0

EXTERIOR WALLS, CONDITION
Comments: Repair or Replace
Exterior walls are stucco finish (exterior insulated finish system). The conditions were poor, repairs are needed around the entire perimeter of the home. This is to alert you that there are significant defects in the stucco applied to this home. The west side of the home has the most concerns in which the stucco should be recoated. The cracks on this side of the home are considered excessive by any standards. I would recommend the builder make all repairs in a timely manner. I also strongly recommend the builder warranty the finish for an additional year. There could be a product defect (ingredients) in the stucco which was applied and the finish could continually crack in the future after the builders warranty expires. You may want to have the Arizona Registrar of Contractors document this issue so the builder cannot claim any warranty has expired. The Registrar of Contractors will send a state representative to your residence to perform a courtesy inspection of the stucco and document the time of their inspection so everybody is on the same page should the builder neglect to repair or replace the finish on the home. The Registrar of Contractors have strict guidelines as to the application of stucco on homes or buildings in Arizona and regulates the installation of stucco to current building standards. The stucco must meet or exceed the minimum standards adopted by the American Concrete Institute with regard to the ingredients of the cement based finish, and must be applied in a Professional Workmanlike Manner. There is no tolerance for cracks over 1/16 of an inch and zero tolerance for stucco failing or chipping from window or door frames on a new home. For more information about the Registrar please visit: http://www.rc.state.az.us/

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3.1

EXTERIOR WALL PAINT (NEW HOMES)
Comments: Repair or Replace
I recommend the entire home be repainted after all the stucco is repaired or replaced. There are different colors of paint on the west side of the home and other numerous locations where someone was trying to cover all the excessive cracking in the stucco finish. There is visible mineral/efflorescence penetration from the stucco finish weeping through the paint, which is associated with applying paint before the stucco has cured for the appropriate amount of time.

3.2

STUCCO WEEP FLASHING
Comments: Repair or Replace
The metal weep flashing is not attached to the home properly at the front, to the right of the main entrance door. The flashing is required to be installed tight to the foundation, without excessive gaps. This will allow rain water to deteriorate the framing components, from splashing up under the weep screed. This is also an invitation for wood destroying insects to easily access cellulose products. This needs to be repaired in a timely manner.

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3.3

WINDOWS AND FLASHINGS
Comments: Repair or Replace
Windows are dual pane glass. The conditions were acceptable with regard to their operation and latching. The flashing for windows installed with stucco to the edge of the window frames is not visible but there was no evidence of moisture intrusion around them yet.
The stucco is failing at the window frames and also appears it was not installed in a professional like manner, gaps are present between the frames and the wall finish. If the builder chooses not to make the necessary repairs in a timely manner please contact the Arizona Registrar of Contractors: http://www.rc.state.az.us/
Some window glass in the pictures appear to have lost the hermetic seal, this is not the case, it just appears that way in the pictures.

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3.4

EXTERIOR DOORS AND WEATHER STRIPPING
Comments: Repair or Replace
The exterior door from the master bedroom to the rear patio needs the weather stripping adjusted or replaced so sun light cannot be seen from the interior to the exterior and the door closes tightly and evenly.

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3.5

SOFFITS, FASCIA, EAVES, TRIM, FLASHINGS
Comments: Repair or Replace
There are numerous cracks and holes in the stucco finish of the fascia, which need to be repaired in a timely manner before further deterioration continues. I recommend the builder correct this as soon as possible. Rain water has the ability to enter in back of the stucco. Picture #1 is at the rear of the home, above the large upper stationary window in the master bedroom. Picture #2 is on the left side front of the home, the stucco was applied in a less than professional like manner.

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3.6	EXTERIOR PATIO CEILINGS, EXTERIOR CEILING FANS Comments: Repair or Replace The sheetrock ceiling needs to be caulked and repainted where it meets the wall framing at all edges. This is considered normal from shrinkage, but needs to be repaired.

3.7

EXTERIOR ELECTRICAL OUTLETS, GROUND FAULT CIRCUITS, LIGHTING
Comments: Inspected
Exterior outlets are Ground fault circuit interrupters. All exterior outlet circuits were tested by manually tripping the ground faults. The exterior light fixtures operated correctly, and were attached to the building properly at the time of this inspection.

3.8	EXTERIOR PLUMBING, FAUCETS Comments: Inspected Hose faucets are present at front and rear of home. They operated properly at the time of inspection. There are anti-siphon devices on the faucets.

ROOF MATERIAL TYPE AND CONDITION

Concrete or clay roof tile are among the most expensive and durable of all roof, and are guaranteed by the manufacturer to last forty years or more, but are usually only guaranteed against leaks by the installer for three to five years. Like other pitched roofs, they are not designed to be waterproof only water resistant, and depend on the quality of the waterproof membrane beneath them, which is not visible without removing tiles, but could be split or cracked from movement, deterioration through time, or by ultra-violent contamination. Although there is some leeway in installation specifications, the type and quality of the membranes that are installed vary from one installer to another, and leaks do occur. The majority of leaks result from a roof which has not been installed right in the first place, or not well maintained and kept clean. We recommend all roofs be serviced annually and inspected by a competent roof contractor.

Inspection Items

4.0

HOME ROOF COVERINGS
Comments: Repair or Replace
Roof covering was observed at numerous areas with a ladder because walking cement roofing material can cause breakage. Tiles which are cracked/broken and dislodged are present. This roof has a 30 lb. composition asphalt underlayment applied to the roof sheathing before the installation of the tiles. Generally in time the underlayment becomes deteriorated and water will begin leaking into the home, especially when this concern is directly related to the metal roof flashing also. Repairing the tiles in a timely manner would be needed. The area which needs repair is represented in picture #4. I recommend the roofing contractor review the rest of the roof which was not accessible from a ladder and make any repairs which are necessary.

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4.1

ROOF FLASHINGS, DRIP EDGE FLASHING
Comments: Repair or Replace
The stucco needs to be repaired at the metal flashing where the wire and foam insulation are visible. Picture #2 is the location which needs the repair made.

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4.2

ROOF PENETRATIONS, PLUMBING VENTS, ATTIC VENTS, SKYLIGHTS, CHIMNEYS, CONDITION, AND PROPER SEALING
Comments: Inspected
The metal flashing around the roof penetrations such as plumbing vents appeared acceptable. There was no sign of any moisture penetration around them in the attic, which would tell us they are not sealed or installed correctly.

ATTIC, INSULATION, AND VENTILATION

Attic ventilation is important in Arizona to help keep your home cooler in the summer and warm in the winter. Temperatures in a unvented or poorly vented attic can reach over 150 degrees. The insulation in the attic is a barrier between extreme heat and cold. The amount of insulation determines the resistance which is necessary to keep the home at a comfortable temperature. Generally 10 to 12 inches of a blown cellulose or fiberglass batt insulation will provide this resistance value. Most homes we inspect do not have the sufficient amount of insulation present. The current building standard is 10 inches, but when settlement occurs after installation we find 6 to 8 inches present with a cellulose product. Adding additional insulation is rather inexpensive, and if our inspectors recommend you add additional insulation it is just for the purpose of saving you money in energy costs. A home with no insulation will stay cool if the air conditioner runs almost continually. Then again, a home with twice the amount normally installed, the cooling and heating system will operate even less than normal, saving you money in the long run.

Inspection Items

5.0

ATTIC ACCESS
Comments: Inspected
Attic access was gained with a ladder at the hallway ceiling. The access is for heating and cooling professionals to perform maintenance on the equipment in the attic.

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5.1

INSULATION AND VAPOR RETARDERS, TYPE VISIBLE
Comments: Repair or Replace
Blown Cellulose insulation is about four to five inches thick at areas: Under the R-30 resistance value which is supposed to be installed at the area to the left of the access opening to the attic. Picture #1 represents a measurement of Four inches. I recommend the insulation contractor install the correct amount which is clearly stapled to the wall "R-30 Value", which is clearly not present, and is a current building requirement. The lack of insulation is causing the cooling equipment to operate more than necessary, increasing your electrical consumption.

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5.2

VENTILATION
Comments: Repair or Replace
The level of ventilation should be improved. Generally recommended that (1) square foot of free vent area be provided for every (150) square ft. of living space. Proper ventilation will help keep the home cooler in hot weather. Gable vents would greatly increase the ventilation of the attic area and would be recommended. The city building inspector could have allowed the construction of the home in this fashion. Other homes in the neighborhood built by the same builder have gable vents, the builder and city inspector could have overlooked the installation. I would ask the builder about this before your warranty expires.

5.3	ROOF UNDERLAYMENT, FRAMING, VISIBLE Comments: Inspected Roof framing was inspected while in the attic. There was no altered structural components present. The roof sheathing does not have any moisture stains present.

5.4

EXPOSED ATTIC WIRING CONDITIONS
Comments: Inspected
The electrical wiring which is visible and not covered with insulation was correctly installed. Wires are generally located throughout the attic area of a building under the insulation. When modifications have been made they are sometimes visible. We report when the wiring methods are not consistent with the current electrical code.

PLUMBING SYSTEMS OF THE BUILDING

The accessible permanently installed equipment or components are inspected for basic operation. Older fixtures or components should be budgeted for replacement. Some corrosion is common. We are not equipped to repair leaky shutoffs, therefore we do not operate fixture shutoffs. Shutoff valves should only be operated by a plumber, equipped to repair it if the valve starts leaking or breaks. The type of plumbing material and components in the home are described in this section of the report, as required by the Arizona standards of practice. Please read the entire report for concerns or repair recommendations which could be present.

Inspection Items

6.0

MAIN WATER SHUTOFF DEVICE, LOCATION
Comments: Inspected
The water shut-off valve to turn off all water to the home is located at the front of the home, the exterior plumbing is copper. We do not operate these valves. Operation could cause the valve to break or leak from not being operated often. These valves accumulate calcium deposits inside and generally will not operate correctly after years of not using the valve. We recommend turning the brass valve off at the meter box located behind the curb if a situation should occur where the need to turn the entire water supply off to the home is needed, and call a plumber.

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6.1	INTERIOR WATER SUPPLY MATERIAL, DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM, AND SUPPORTS Comments: Inspected Interior water supply piping is Copper and PEX polyethylene plastic. There was no concern with the water supply piping.

6.2	INTERIOR DRAIN, WASTE AND VENT PIPE MATERIAL Comments: Inspected Interior drains and the drainage vent pipes are constructed of ABS and PVC plastic piping.

6.3

HOT WATER HEATER(S) AND SYSTEM
Comments: Inspected
Hot water heater is natural gas manufactured by A.O.Smith in 2004 with a capacity of 50 gallons located in the garage. Plumbing, venting and gas connections are consistent with current building standards. I recommend a carbon monoxide detector be installed in the garage for this gas appliance.

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6.4

GAS METER AND SHUTOFF
Comments: Inspected
The natural gas entering the home can be turned off at the valve pictured at the meter in case of an emergency.

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6.5	SEWER CLEANOUTS Comments: Inspected The sewer cleanouts are accessible in the front of the home.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

There are a wide variety of electrical systems, and which any one particular system may not conform to current standards or provide the same degree of service or safety. The most significant concern about a system is the fact that the NEC, National Electrical Code is not retroactive, and therefore many residential systems do not comply with the current standards. However in the interest of safety, we regard every electrical deficiency and recommended upgrade as a latent hazard that should be repaired as soon as possible by a licensed electrician before the close of escrow, because an electrician could recommend additional upgrades. We recommend upgrading outlets to Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI's) which are a relatively inexpensive but essential safety feature and have been around for approximately 30 years and have been required in specific locations. Exterior outlets and pools were the first GFCI requirement in all residential dwellings in 1971, and the list has grew ever since, bathrooms in 1975, garages in 1978, spas and hot tubs in 1981, kitchens and basements in 1987, wet bars in 1993, and all kitchen countertop receptacles with exception of the refrigerator in 1996. Similarly, AFCI, arc fault circuit interrupters the very latest in circuit breaker technology and have been required in all bedroom receptacles since 2002, if your home does not have them we will recommend them because there are thousands of arc fault fires each year, another simple inexpensive upgrade every home should have.

Inspection Items

7.0	MAIN ELECTRICAL METER AND DISTRIBUTION PANEL LOCATION Comments: Inspected Main electrical service meter and distribution panel are located at the right side front of the home.

7.1

MAIN ELECTRICAL PANEL AND DISTRIBUTION PANEL CONDITION
Comments: Inspected
The electrical equipment was installed in a professional like manner. The meter panel and distribution equipment are correctly attached to the wall of the home. The panels are weather protected, the distribution cover is labeled correctly, identifying what circuit breaker controls the circuit it is connected to.

7.2

MAIN SERVICE ENTRANCE CONDUCTOR TYPE AND THE AMPERAGE AND VOLTAGE
Comments: Inspected
The main underground electrical service conductors are not visible because of the configuration of this type electrical equipment and meter box. The electrical service providers conductors are terminated in the meter box and have steel bars used as conductors from the meter to the Hot Bus of the distribution panel. The equipment was labeled inspected and passed by the service provider before the safety shield was installed.

7.3

MAIN OVERLOAD DEVICE AND THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GROUNDING
Comments: Inspected
The main overload device to turn All electrical power off to the entire home is a 200 Amp. single throw circuit breaker. A copper grounding conductor for this electrical system is visible in main service panel, correctly installed and terminated to the foundation. The exact termination point is not visible because the conductor is installed inside the wall cavity. Grounding was tested for this electrical system at the panel and interior of the building. The main electrical service equipment was inspected for conditions which may exist that could jeopardize the safety of the occupants of this home. All visible wiring connections, panel weather protection, and the general overall condition was inspected. I found no concerns present which would need repairs or corrections made by a licensed electrician.

7.4

BRANCH CIRCUIT WIRE TYPE AND CIRCUIT BREAKERS
Comments: Inspected
Branch circuit wires are copper 120 Volt and aluminum 240 Volt, single phase. The overload devices are circuit breakers. The branch circuit wires are the correct size connected to the breakers, considered compatible. All circuit wires are installed in a professional like manner. There are Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters connected to bedroom circuit wiring in the distribution panel, these were manually tested in the panel, and functioned as intended.

AIR CONDITIONING AND HEATING EQUIPMENT

HOW A HEAT PUMP WORKS IN THE COOLING MODE: A Heat Pump is essentially an air conditioner with a few additions. A Heat Pump has a reversing valve, two metering devices and two bypass valves. The compressor pumps refrigerant to the reversing valve. The reversing valve directs the flow of refrigerant to the outside coil (condenser) where the fan cools and condenses the refrigerant to liquid. The air flowing across the coil removes heat from the refrigerant. The liquid refrigerant bypasses the first metering device and flows to the second metering device at the inside coil (evaporator) and the air becomes cooler. This is the air that blows into the home. The refrigerant vapor then travels back to the reversing valve to be directed to the compressor to start the cycle all over again.
ALL HEATING AND COOLING EQUIPMENT NEED TO BE SERVICED YEARLY BY A QUALIFIED PROFESSIONAL.

Inspection Items

8.0

AIR CONDITIONING EQUIPMENT
Comments: Inspected
The air conditioning system for the home is two Aire-Flo split system electric Heat Pumps. The Air Handlers (blowers, condensers, evaporator coils) are located in the attic. Operating and testing the system in the cooling mode the supply temperature was 60 degrees which is about normal for this type of cooling system. All heating and cooling systems need to be serviced yearly by a qualified professional so they operate efficiently. Refrigerant levels need to be checked and the condenser coils cleaned. A heat pump supplying air even one or two degrees lower after service will greatly reduce your electrical consumption.

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8.1	REFRIGERANT LINES Comments: Inspected The refrigerant piping for the Heat Pumps was correctly installed. I did not find any bent or damaged piping where they are visible. They are correctly insulated at the exterior of the home and in the attic.

8.2

ELECTRICAL DISCONNECTS
Comments: Inspected
The electrical disconnects for the Heat Pump(s) were installed correctly at the exterior wall of the home in back of the units. The electrical power can also be turned off at the electrical distribution panel. The disconnect at the unit is for emergencies and service technicians.

8.3	CONDENSATE DRAIN LINES, SYSTEM OVERFLOW PAN Comments: Inspected The condensate drainage lines at the Evaporator Coils of the Air Handlers are installed correctly where they are not covered with insulation and visible. The drip pans are properly attached to the bottom of the equipment.

8.4

HEATING AND AIR HANDLER EQUIPMENT
Comments: Inspected
Heating equipment is two Aire-Flo natural gas Forced Air Furnaces located in the attic at the Air Handler(s) of the split system. The outside temperature was not low enough (below 75 degrees) for accurately testing the system in the heating mode. The distribution ducts are located in a hot attic and the system would blow warm air if the furnaces were operating correctly or not. There was a clean blue flame at both furnaces when they were operated, which generally indicates proper operation. We strongly recommend having gas furnaces serviced yearly as normal home maintenance. Inspecting the heating system, all equipment, wiring, supports, and basic condition was acceptable.

8.5

HEATING EQUIPMENT FLUE AND VENT PIPES
Comments: Inspected
The flue vent pipes for the gas furnaces were inspected for correct installation (fastening) and proper termination above the roof. I strongly recommend a carbon monoxide detector be installed in the attic, all homes should have these detectors if there are natural gas appliances present.

8.6	THERMOSTAT Comments: Inspected The thermostats were manually operated in the cooling and heating mode of the system.

8.7

DISTRIBUTION DUCTS, PIPING, SUPPORTS, REGISTERS, FILTERS
Comments: Repair or Replace
Distribution ducts for the heating and cooling were inspected in the attic. They are insulated flexible type supported with straps as required throughout the attic area. The return air filters are located in the hall ceilings and should be changed monthly. The return register in the main hallway on the left side of the home needs to be fastened to the ceiling correctly and resealed at the edge.

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INTERIOR OF THE BUILDING

Cracks in sheetrock walls and ceilings of a new home are the responsibility of the builder to make the necessary repairs, before the warranty expires. Therefore, when the builder contacts you to make arrangements for a time to make these repairs you should mark all cracks and anomalies with blue painters tape prior to their arrival. Or show the builder exactly where the cracks are located, generally they will only repairs cracks which are very obvious.

Inspection Items

9.0	FLOORS Comments: Inspected We report possible visual structural defects of the interior floors. The floor coverings are not part of this inspection, there was no concern present.

9.1

WALLS, CEILINGS
Comments: Repair or Replace
There are sheetrock anomalies in the home which need repair. I recommend you mark all cracks/anomalies with blue painters tape so the contractor can make the repairs which are necessary. These cracks are normal, caused from settlement and shrinkage of the building materials.

9.2	INTERIOR TRIM, BASEBOARD Comments: Inspected The interior wood trim and baseboard molding were in good condition at the time of this inspection.

9.3	INTERIOR DOORS Comments: Inspected Interior doors were inspected. They operated and latched properly at the time of this inspection.

9.4

MASTER BEDROOM CLOSET
Comments: Inspected
There are minor cracks in the sheetrock, which need to be repaired by the builder. You will need to label the painting anomalies before the builder arrives to make the repairs in the home. The closet shelves are properly attached, the ceiling light fixture operated correctly, and the electrical receptacles are installed properly.

9.5	CEILING FANS Comments: Inspected Ceiling fans functioned properly when tested. They are properly attached to the ceilings in the various rooms of the house. The dimmer switches for the fan lights operate correctly.

9.6	ELECTRICAL WIRING, OUTLETS, SWITCHES, AND LIGHTING Comments: Inspected Receptacles, switches and lighting operate correctly in the living areas. The receptacles were tested for the correct polarity and grounding. There was no concerns found at any receptacle or switch in the home.

9.7

BEDROOM ARC FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER RECEPTACLES
Comments: Inspected
There are AFCI's, Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters connected to the bedroom wall receptacles. They tripped when manually tested in the distribution panel of the electrical system. Should a receptacle in one of the bedrooms suddenly loose electrical current, a fault may have been sensed by the AFCI, which could be related to a fixture plugged into a receptacle or a faulty AFCI circuit breaker, in any event a electrician should determine the cause.

9.8	SMOKE DETECTORS Comments: Inspected Smoke Detectors were tested. They operated manually. We recommend smoke detectors be re-tested periodically, and batteries changed yearly.

BATHROOM(S)

Bathroom fixtures in new homes may need the caulking around tub and shower surrounds resealed, because of shrinkage of the caulk or tile grout. The caulk/sealant and grout appears to be in normal condition now, but if any separation occurs before the builder makes the necessary repairs to your home, labeling any such cracking should be done before the builder arrives to make an assessment of the entire home.

Inspection Items

10.0

FLOORS, WALLS, CEILINGS
Comments: Inspected
The bathrooms were in normal condition for a home which has been lived in. There were no concerns present which would need repairs by the contractor, except sheetrock and painting anomalies which in your opinion need repairs.

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10.1	TUB SHOWER UNIT(S) Comments: Inspected There were no concerns present at the time of inspection. The fixture operated correctly.

10.2	SHOWER UNIT(S) Comments: Inspected The condition was acceptable and the fixture operated correctly.

10.3	MASTER BATH TUB UNIT Comments: Inspected This fixture was in acceptable condition, and functioned properly at the time of inspection.

10.4	BATHROOM SINKS, COUNTERTOPS, CABINETS Comments: Inspected The sinks and cabinets are in acceptable condition in the bathrooms. The water and drainage pipes are connected to current plumbing standards.

10.5	SINK DRAINAGE PIPES Comments: Inspected There were no active leaks at the time of this inspection.

10.6	TOILETS Comments: Inspected The toilets are correctly installed, no visible leaks present and flushed properly.

10.7	BATHROOM, ELECTRICAL OUTLETS, GROUND FAULT CIRCUITS, LIGHTING Comments: Inspected Ground fault circuit interrupters were tested in all bathrooms, no concerns were present. The lighting functioned properly.

10.8	BATHROOM , WATER PRESSURE, AND DRAINAGE FUNCTIONAL FLOW Comments: Inspected The water pressure in the bathrooms was acceptable. The drains emptied correctly.

10.9	BATHROOM EXHAUST VENTILATION Comments: Inspected Bathroom ventilation fans were functional in the bathroom ceilings.

10.10

BATHROOM WINDOWS
Comments: Inspected
The windows were functional and properly installed.

KITCHEN, CABINETS, COUNTERS, APPLIANCES

The testing or inspecting of any kitchen appliance is beyond the scope of this inspection with regard to their effectiveness in the operation of which they were manufactured to perform. We do manually operate stoves and ovens if they are free of pots and pans but offer no opinion as to their cooking effectiveness, the appliance is turned on and off and inspected for visible damage. Dishwashers are manually operated through a cycle by manually turning the operating dial through a cycle. We do not inspect for the proper washing effectiveness or add detergents to the machines, or operate the soap dispenser in the unit, we inspect for proper installation. Microwaves are not tested to heat an item, they are turned on and off to see if electricity is present. Food Disposers are not tested to determine their effectiveness in disposing of food related items, they are turned on and off to see if they operate, and are installed to current standards. The appliances inspected are in the condition stated here at the time of this inspection.

Inspection Items

11.0

FLOOR, WALLS, CEILINGS
Comments: Inspected
The condition of the kitchen was normal for a home which was lived in. We report damage to areas which would need a contractor to repair, not normal wear and tear.

11.0 Picture 1

11.1	KITCHEN CABINETS AND COUNTERTOPS Comments: Inspected Cabinets and countertops are in acceptable condition.

11.2	KITCHEN SINK AND FAUCET Comments: Inspected The faucet operated correctly. The sink was in acceptable condition.

11.3	WATER PRESSURE AND DRAINAGE FUNCTIONAL FLOW Comments: Inspected The water pressure was acceptable and drains emptied correctly.

11.4	SINK DRAINAGE PIPES Comments: Inspected There were no active leaks at the time of this inspection.

11.5	KITCHEN ELECTRICAL OUTLETS, GROUND FAULT CIRCUITS, LIGHTING Comments: Inspected Ground fault circuit interrupters were tested. Lighting functioned correctly.

11.6	FOOD DISPOSER Comments: Inspected Disposer functioned properly. Electrical and plumbing connections were consistent with current standards.

11.7	DISHWASHER Comments: Inspected The dishwasher was not operated, the electrical and plumbing connections are consistent with current standards.

LAUNDRY ROOM

We recommend the clothes dryer pipe be disconnected from the dryer at least once a year, and the excess dust and debris which generally collects at the base of the vent pipe inside the wall be vacuumed. Most builders are installing dryer vent pipes inside the walls of the home, and terminating them above the roof, which is acceptable, but periodic maintenance is required to keep the vent pipes free of debris.

Inspection Items

12.0	FLOOR, WALLS, CEILING Comments: Inspected The room is in acceptable condition.

12.1	DOOR Comments: Inspected The door from the laundry room to the kitchen functioned as intended.

12.2	LAUNDRY PLUMBING CONNECTIONS Comments: Not Tested Plumbing connections are consistent with current standards. The washer was connected to the faucets, there was no visible leaks at the time of this inspection.

12.3

DRYER POWER SUPPLY
Comments: Inspected
The power supply to operate a dryer is 240 Volt electricity. There is a natural gas line also available for a clothes dryer, above the baseboard molding to the right of the dryer. This line has a cap on it correctly installed, with no gas leaking, this was tested.

12.4	ELECTRICAL OUTLETS, GROUND FAULT CIRCUITS, LIGHTING Comments: Inspected Ground fault circuit interrupters were functional, and manually tested, the lighting operated as intended.

12.5	DRYER VENTING Comments: Inspected The dryer vent pipe is installed through the roof (from interior wall). I recommend having the metal pipes cleaned as normal home maintenance yearly. Dryer debris generally collects at the base of the vent pipe connection.

12.6	ROOM EXHAUST VENTILATION Comments: Inspected Laundry room has an exterior vented fan. This operated properly when inspected. There is a rain cap installed where the vent pipes terminate above the roof line.

12.7	SINK OR WASH BASIN Comments: Inspected The sink operated correctly. There was no active leaks in the drainage or water supply lines.

GARAGE, DOORS, AUTO-OPENERS

The garage not being a living area of the home is not inspected for cosmetic issues. Most garages have the wall finishes scraped, etc. The garage is inspected to make sure the door reverses when meeting resistance so a child could not get injured. If a natural gas water heater is located here, we inspect to make sure the appliance is vented correctly and the door into the home self closes so the possibility of carbon monoxide poisoning is reduced. Major cracks in the foundation, and walls or ceiling will be documented in this report.

Inspection Items

13.0

FLOORS, WALLS, CEILINGS
Comments: Repair or Replace
The ceiling has excessive cracking and anomalies present. We recommend repairs be made by the builder before your one year warranty expires. This is associated with shrinkage of the material, which happen frequently in garage areas because they are not conditioned space.

13.0 Picture 1

13.0 Picture 2

13.1

PASSAGE DOOR TO INTERIOR/EXTERIOR
Comments: Repair or Replace
Passage door to interior is fire-rated and self-closing. The bottom threshold for the door to the exterior is separating from the concrete slab, this needs to be fastened correctly and resealed. The exterior wood trim is separating from the door casing and needs to be fastened correctly.

13.1 Picture 1

13.1 Picture 2

13.2	GARAGE DOOR MATERIAL AND CONDITION Comments: Inspected Garage door is metal, condition was acceptable.

13.3	GARAGE DOOR OPENER(s) Comments: Inspected Auto-Opener functioned properly when met with resistance (reversed), electric eyes are present and operational. The door track for the opener is fastened to wood framing correctly, no concerns were present.

13.4	ELECTRICAL OUTLETS, LIGHTING Comments: Inspected Ground fault circuit interrupters functioned correctly, they were manually tripped and reset, the lighting and switches were operational.

13.5	GARAGE DOOR TRIM Comments: Inspected The vinyl and wood trim around the garage door was installed correctly.

SUMMARY

Phoenix Home Inspectors, Inc. 10599 E. Betony Dr. Scottsdale AZ. 85255 602-402-5305 480-529-3619
Customer Michael Bishop
Property Address 10621 N. 103 Ave. Phoenix, AZ. 85040

The following items or discoveries indicate that these systems or components do not function as intended or adversely affects the habitability of the dwelling; or appear to warrant further investigation by a specialist, or requires subsequent observation.

This summary shall not contain recommendations for routine upkeep of a system or component to keep it in proper functioning condition or recommendations to upgrade or enhance the function, efficiency, or safety of the building.

This Summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of concern to the customer. It is recommended that the customer read the complete report.

GENERAL BUILDING AND SITE INFORMATION

1.1	GENERAL EXTERIOR SITE DRAINAGE
	Repair or Replace
	The right side front of the home needs the landscape rock and soil lowered so there is a minimum of six inches of clearance, from the bottom of the stucco to grade, with a slope away from the home. There should be a gradual swale from the front of the block fence to the road, so rain water is able to drain correctly from the back yard. The back yard (right side) needs soil added so rain water is not standing, and is able to freely drain through the holes at the bottom of the block fence. Moisture next to a foundation will have an adverse affect on your home, expansive soil could damage the foundation, and is an invitation for wood destroying insects.
1.3	CONCRETE DRIVEWAY, WALKWAYS, PATIOS, ENTRYWAYS, CONDITION
	Repair or Replace
	The concrete driveway has two significant cracks, in sections of the concrete. The builder is responsible for the exterior concrete surfaces until the warranty expires, the two sections of concrete will need to be replaced. The other walkways and patio concrete surfaces were in acceptable condition, at the time of this inspection.
1.4	FENCE AND GATE(S), CONDITION
	Repair or Replace
	Gate entering rear yard needs auto-closure mechanism adjusted or replaced, we recommend repairing this immediately because there is a pool in the back yard. The state of Arizona requires all gates and doors entering yards where pools are present to have self-closing devices present and operational.

EXTERIOR OF BUILDING, MATERIALS USED AND CONDITION

3.0	EXTERIOR WALLS, CONDITION
	Repair or Replace
	Exterior walls are stucco finish (exterior insulated finish system). The conditions were poor, repairs are needed around the entire perimeter of the home. This is to alert you that there are significant defects in the stucco applied to this home. The west side of the home has the most concerns in which the stucco should be recoated. The cracks on this side of the home are considered excessive by any standards. I would recommend the builder make all repairs in a timely manner. I also strongly recommend the builder warranty the finish for an additional year. There could be a product defect (ingredients) in the stucco which was applied and the finish could continually crack in the future after the builders warranty expires. You may want to have the Arizona Registrar of Contractors document this issue so the builder cannot claim any warranty has expired. The Registrar of Contractors will send a state representative to your residence to perform a courtesy inspection of the stucco and document the time of their inspection so everybody is on the same page should the builder neglect to repair or replace the finish on the home. The Registrar of Contractors have strict guidelines as to the application of stucco on homes or buildings in Arizona and regulates the installation of stucco to current building standards. The stucco must meet or exceed the minimum standards adopted by the American Concrete Institute with regard to the ingredients of the cement based finish, and must be applied in a Professional Workmanlike Manner. There is no tolerance for cracks over 1/16 of an inch and zero tolerance for stucco failing or chipping from window or door frames on a new home. For more information about the Registrar please visit: http://www.rc.state.az.us/
3.1	EXTERIOR WALL PAINT (NEW HOMES)
	Repair or Replace
	I recommend the entire home be repainted after all the stucco is repaired or replaced. There are different colors of paint on the west side of the home and other numerous locations where someone was trying to cover all the excessive cracking in the stucco finish. There is visible mineral/efflorescence penetration from the stucco finish weeping through the paint, which is associated with applying paint before the stucco has cured for the appropriate amount of time.
3.2	STUCCO WEEP FLASHING
	Repair or Replace
	The metal weep flashing is not attached to the home properly at the front, to the right of the main entrance door. The flashing is required to be installed tight to the foundation, without excessive gaps. This will allow rain water to deteriorate the framing components, from splashing up under the weep screed. This is also an invitation for wood destroying insects to easily access cellulose products. This needs to be repaired in a timely manner.
3.3	WINDOWS AND FLASHINGS
	Repair or Replace
	Windows are dual pane glass. The conditions were acceptable with regard to their operation and latching. The flashing for windows installed with stucco to the edge of the window frames is not visible but there was no evidence of moisture intrusion around them yet. The stucco is failing at the window frames and also appears it was not installed in a professional like manner, gaps are present between the frames and the wall finish. If the builder chooses not to make the necessary repairs in a timely manner please contact the Arizona Registrar of Contractors: http://www.rc.state.az.us/ Some window glass in the pictures appear to have lost the hermetic seal, this is not the case, it just appears that way in the pictures.
3.4	EXTERIOR DOORS AND WEATHER STRIPPING
	Repair or Replace
	The exterior door from the master bedroom to the rear patio needs the weather stripping adjusted or replaced so sun light cannot be seen from the interior to the exterior and the door closes tightly and evenly.
3.5	SOFFITS, FASCIA, EAVES, TRIM, FLASHINGS
	Repair or Replace
	There are numerous cracks and holes in the stucco finish of the fascia, which need to be repaired in a timely manner before further deterioration continues. I recommend the builder correct this as soon as possible. Rain water has the ability to enter in back of the stucco. Picture #1 is at the rear of the home, above the large upper stationary window in the master bedroom. Picture #2 is on the left side front of the home, the stucco was applied in a less than professional like manner.
3.6	EXTERIOR PATIO CEILINGS, EXTERIOR CEILING FANS
	Repair or Replace
	The sheetrock ceiling needs to be caulked and repainted where it meets the wall framing at all edges. This is considered normal from shrinkage, but needs to be repaired.

ROOF MATERIAL TYPE AND CONDITION

4.0	HOME ROOF COVERINGS
	Repair or Replace
	Roof covering was observed at numerous areas with a ladder because walking cement roofing material can cause breakage. Tiles which are cracked/broken and dislodged are present. This roof has a 30 lb. composition asphalt underlayment applied to the roof sheathing before the installation of the tiles. Generally in time the underlayment becomes deteriorated and water will begin leaking into the home, especially when this concern is directly related to the metal roof flashing also. Repairing the tiles in a timely manner would be needed. The area which needs repair is represented in picture #4. I recommend the roofing contractor review the rest of the roof which was not accessible from a ladder and make any repairs which are necessary.
4.1	ROOF FLASHINGS, DRIP EDGE FLASHING
	Repair or Replace
	The stucco needs to be repaired at the metal flashing where the wire and foam insulation are visible. Picture #2 is the location which needs the repair made.

ATTIC, INSULATION, AND VENTILATION

5.1	INSULATION AND VAPOR RETARDERS, TYPE VISIBLE
	Repair or Replace
	Blown Cellulose insulation is about four to five inches thick at areas: Under the R-30 resistance value which is supposed to be installed at the area to the left of the access opening to the attic. Picture #1 represents a measurement of Four inches. I recommend the insulation contractor install the correct amount which is clearly stapled to the wall "R-30 Value", which is clearly not present, and is a current building requirement. The lack of insulation is causing the cooling equipment to operate more than necessary, increasing your electrical consumption.
5.2	VENTILATION
	Repair or Replace
	The level of ventilation should be improved. Generally recommended that (1) square foot of free vent area be provided for every (150) square ft. of living space. Proper ventilation will help keep the home cooler in hot weather. Gable vents would greatly increase the ventilation of the attic area and would be recommended. The city building inspector could have allowed the construction of the home in this fashion. Other homes in the neighborhood built by the same builder have gable vents, the builder and city inspector could have overlooked the installation. I would ask the builder about this before your warranty expires.

AIR CONDITIONING AND HEATING EQUIPMENT

8.7	DISTRIBUTION DUCTS, PIPING, SUPPORTS, REGISTERS, FILTERS
	Repair or Replace
	Distribution ducts for the heating and cooling were inspected in the attic. They are insulated flexible type supported with straps as required throughout the attic area. The return air filters are located in the hall ceilings and should be changed monthly. The return register in the main hallway on the left side of the home needs to be fastened to the ceiling correctly and resealed at the edge.

INTERIOR OF THE BUILDING

9.1	WALLS, CEILINGS
	Repair or Replace
	There are sheetrock anomalies in the home which need repair. I recommend you mark all cracks/anomalies with blue painters tape so the contractor can make the repairs which are necessary. These cracks are normal, caused from settlement and shrinkage of the building materials.

GARAGE, DOORS, AUTO-OPENERS

13.0	FLOORS, WALLS, CEILINGS
	Repair or Replace
	The ceiling has excessive cracking and anomalies present. We recommend repairs be made by the builder before your one year warranty expires. This is associated with shrinkage of the material, which happen frequently in garage areas because they are not conditioned space.
13.1	PASSAGE DOOR TO INTERIOR/EXTERIOR
	Repair or Replace
	Passage door to interior is fire-rated and self-closing. The bottom threshold for the door to the exterior is separating from the concrete slab, this needs to be fastened correctly and resealed. The exterior wood trim is separating from the door casing and needs to be fastened correctly.

Phoenix Home Inspectors, Inc.

The right side front of the home needs the landscape rock and soil lowered so there is a minimum of six inches of clearance, from the bottom of the stucco to grade, with a slope away from the home. There should be a gradual swale from the front of the block fence to the road, so rain water is able to drain correctly from the back yard. The back yard (right side) needs soil added so rain water is not standing, and is able to freely drain through the holes at the bottom of the block fence. Moisture next to a foundation will have an adverse affect on your home, expansive soil could damage the foundation, and is an invitation for wood destroying insects.

The concrete driveway has two significant cracks, in sections of the concrete. The builder is responsible for the exterior concrete surfaces until the warranty expires, the two sections of concrete will need to be replaced. The other walkways and patio concrete surfaces were in acceptable condition, at the time of this inspection.

Gate entering rear yard needs auto-closure mechanism adjusted or replaced, we recommend repairing this immediately because there is a pool in the back yard. The state of Arizona requires all gates and doors entering yards where pools are present to have self-closing devices present and operational.

Exterior walls are stucco finish (exterior insulated finish system). The conditions were poor, repairs are needed around the entire perimeter of the home. This is to alert you that there are significant defects in the stucco applied to this home. The west side of the home has the most concerns in which the stucco should be recoated. The cracks on this side of the home are considered excessive by any standards. I would recommend the builder make all repairs in a timely manner. I also strongly recommend the builder warranty the finish for an additional year. There could be a product defect (ingredients) in the stucco which was applied and the finish could continually crack in the future after the builders warranty expires. You may want to have the Arizona Registrar of Contractors document this issue so the builder cannot claim any warranty has expired. The Registrar of Contractors will send a state representative to your residence to perform a courtesy inspection of the stucco and document the time of their inspection so everybody is on the same page should the builder neglect to repair or replace the finish on the home. The Registrar of Contractors have strict guidelines as to the application of stucco on homes or buildings in Arizona and regulates the installation of stucco to current building standards. The stucco must meet or exceed the minimum standards adopted by the American Concrete Institute with regard to the ingredients of the cement based finish, and must be applied in a Professional Workmanlike Manner. There is no tolerance for cracks over 1/16 of an inch and zero tolerance for stucco failing or chipping from window or door frames on a new home. For more information about the Registrar please visit: http://www.rc.state.az.us/

I recommend the entire home be repainted after all the stucco is repaired or replaced. There are different colors of paint on the west side of the home and other numerous locations where someone was trying to cover all the excessive cracking in the stucco finish. There is visible mineral/efflorescence penetration from the stucco finish weeping through the paint, which is associated with applying paint before the stucco has cured for the appropriate amount of time.

The metal weep flashing is not attached to the home properly at the front, to the right of the main entrance door. The flashing is required to be installed tight to the foundation, without excessive gaps. This will allow rain water to deteriorate the framing components, from splashing up under the weep screed. This is also an invitation for wood destroying insects to easily access cellulose products. This needs to be repaired in a timely manner.

Windows are dual pane glass. The conditions were acceptable with regard to their operation and latching. The flashing for windows installed with stucco to the edge of the window frames is not visible but there was no evidence of moisture intrusion around them yet.
The stucco is failing at the window frames and also appears it was not installed in a professional like manner, gaps are present between the frames and the wall finish. If the builder chooses not to make the necessary repairs in a timely manner please contact the Arizona Registrar of Contractors: http://www.rc.state.az.us/
Some window glass in the pictures appear to have lost the hermetic seal, this is not the case, it just appears that way in the pictures.

The exterior door from the master bedroom to the rear patio needs the weather stripping adjusted or replaced so sun light cannot be seen from the interior to the exterior and the door closes tightly and evenly.

There are numerous cracks and holes in the stucco finish of the fascia, which need to be repaired in a timely manner before further deterioration continues. I recommend the builder correct this as soon as possible. Rain water has the ability to enter in back of the stucco. Picture #1 is at the rear of the home, above the large upper stationary window in the master bedroom. Picture #2 is on the left side front of the home, the stucco was applied in a less than professional like manner.

Roof covering was observed at numerous areas with a ladder because walking cement roofing material can cause breakage. Tiles which are cracked/broken and dislodged are present. This roof has a 30 lb. composition asphalt underlayment applied to the roof sheathing before the installation of the tiles. Generally in time the underlayment becomes deteriorated and water will begin leaking into the home, especially when this concern is directly related to the metal roof flashing also. Repairing the tiles in a timely manner would be needed. The area which needs repair is represented in picture #4. I recommend the roofing contractor review the rest of the roof which was not accessible from a ladder and make any repairs which are necessary.

Blown Cellulose insulation is about four to five inches thick at areas: Under the R-30 resistance value which is supposed to be installed at the area to the left of the access opening to the attic. Picture #1 represents a measurement of Four inches. I recommend the insulation contractor install the correct amount which is clearly stapled to the wall "R-30 Value", which is clearly not present, and is a current building requirement. The lack of insulation is causing the cooling equipment to operate more than necessary, increasing your electrical consumption.

The level of ventilation should be improved. Generally recommended that (1) square foot of free vent area be provided for every (150) square ft. of living space. Proper ventilation will help keep the home cooler in hot weather. Gable vents would greatly increase the ventilation of the attic area and would be recommended. The city building inspector could have allowed the construction of the home in this fashion. Other homes in the neighborhood built by the same builder have gable vents, the builder and city inspector could have overlooked the installation. I would ask the builder about this before your warranty expires.

Distribution ducts for the heating and cooling were inspected in the attic. They are insulated flexible type supported with straps as required throughout the attic area. The return air filters are located in the hall ceilings and should be changed monthly. The return register in the main hallway on the left side of the home needs to be fastened to the ceiling correctly and resealed at the edge.

There are sheetrock anomalies in the home which need repair. I recommend you mark all cracks/anomalies with blue painters tape so the contractor can make the repairs which are necessary. These cracks are normal, caused from settlement and shrinkage of the building materials.

The ceiling has excessive cracking and anomalies present. We recommend repairs be made by the builder before your one year warranty expires. This is associated with shrinkage of the material, which happen frequently in garage areas because they are not conditioned space.

Passage door to interior is fire-rated and self-closing. The bottom threshold for the door to the exterior is separating from the concrete slab, this needs to be fastened correctly and resealed. The exterior wood trim is separating from the door casing and needs to be fastened correctly.

Client Is Present: Yes	Age Of Building: New Construction	Building Faces: North
Weather: Clear	Temperature: Over 90 degrees	Rain in last 3 days: No

Inspection Report

Phoenix Home Inspectors, Inc.

GENERAL BUILDING AND SITE INFORMATION

STRUCTURAL LOAD BEARING COMPONENTS AND BUILDING MATERIALS USED

EXTERIOR OF BUILDING, MATERIALS USED AND CONDITION

ROOF MATERIAL TYPE AND CONDITION

ATTIC, INSULATION, AND VENTILATION

PLUMBING SYSTEMS OF THE BUILDING

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

AIR CONDITIONING AND HEATING EQUIPMENT

INTERIOR OF THE BUILDING

BATHROOM(S)

KITCHEN, CABINETS, COUNTERS, APPLIANCES

LAUNDRY ROOM

GARAGE, DOORS, AUTO-OPENERS

SUMMARY