| Date: 4/5/2009 | Time: 10:22 AM | Report ID: 4.5.09 |
| Property: 8753 W. Montgomery St. Phoenix AZ. 85037 |
Customer: Jason Alexander |
Real Estate Professional: N/A |
The following definitions of comment descriptions represent this inspection report. Any recommendations by the inspector to repair or replace suggests a second opinion or further inspection by a qualified contractor or professional.
Inspected: This term means I visually observed the item, component or unit and if no other comments were made then it appeared to be functioning as intended allowing normal wear and tear. The notation does not mean that the item is perfect but does meet a reasonable standard on the day of inspection.
Repair or Replace: The item, component or unit is not functioning as intended or needs further inspection by a qualified contractor. Items, components or units that can be repaired to satisfactory condition may not need replacement.
Requires Immediate Attention: The item, component or unit needs immediate attention by a qualified professional or contractor for the safety or health of the occupants of the building. Could cause further major deterioration, or complete failure of a system or component. Worsen appreciably, cause damage, or be a serious hazard.
Unsafe: A condition in a readily accessible, installed system or component which is judged to be a significant risk of personal injury during normal day to day use. The risk may be due to damage, deterioration, improper installation or a change in adopted construction standards.
Not Tested: I did inspect this item, component or unit and made no representations of whether or not it was functioning as intended and will state a reason for not testing or operating.
IMPORTANT NOTICE TO THIRD PARTIES: Receipt of this report by anyone other than the above listed party(s) is not authorized by Inspect Arizona Companies, Inc. This report is prepared for the sole and exclusive use for the client who signed the INSPECTION AGREEMENT and is subject to the terms and conditions agreed upon. This Inspection Report is a product, and is copyrighted by Inspect Arizona Companies, Inc. at the date of this inspection. Duplication by any means whatsoever is prohibited without prior written permission and authorization from Inspect Arizona Companies, Inc. Unauthorized duplication, use, or reliance of this report shall constitute all parties agreed upon to hold harmless, whether individual, joint or otherwise, Dale Duffy and Inspect Arizona Companies, Inc., their successor's and assignee's.
PERMITS/BUILDING CODE VIOLATIONS: If you are concerned about code violations or building permit information you should: 1) Contract with our company to research permit information available at the appropriate building and safety office, 2) If you have additional concerns with regard to code violations you may contract for a code compliance survey of the property.
You have contracted with us to perform an inspection in
accordance with Arizona industry standards for the inspection
profession. This is different from our technically exhaustive
inspection which takes several days to complete, involves the
use of specialized instruments, the dismantling of equipment,
video scanning, destructive testing and laboratory analysis of
possible contaminates. Our purpose is to identify defects or
adverse conditions that need additional evaluation, are safety
concerns or may lead to costs that would significantly affect
your evaluation of the property at the time of this inspection:
The Arizona minimum Standards for Professional Practice are
available online. Please read this!
Client Is Present: No | Age Of Building: Unknown | Building Faces: North |
Weather: Clear | Temperature: Over 80 degrees | Rain in last 3 days: No |
Inspection Items
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| 1.0 | BASIC REPORT INFORMATION OR BUILDING CHARACTERISTICS Comments: Repair or Replace, Informational |
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Please Click this link above for more information. Any Item in this report I use my own professional opinion being a Licensed Home Inspector and contractor in the past, when I mention SIGNIFICANT, I am referring to costing you probably MORE or close to $1,000.00 to repair or replace. Inspecting this home it is evident an Amateur did much Handyman work to the house, especially electrical work which in my professional opinion are nothing short of a Fire Hazard. Have a Licensed Electrician(s) look over the entire electrical system and give you repair estimate(s) before you close escrow, the cost could-will be significant. The Pool has been neglected, have a Licensed Pool Contractor(s) give you repair estimates before you close escrow, the cost could-will be significant. The garage door should be replaced, the cost depending on what you consider significant, but my company considers $1,000.00 as significant, therefore get garage door replacement and installation costs before you close escrow. The roof needs work, especially at the low sloped portion in front, and toward the west of the building, the cost could-will be significant. You should always try to get at least three estimates to have repairs-replacements performed, prices vary, therefore it is wise to get three estimates, and make sure you look at the contractors past complaints (if any) at the Arizona Registrar of Contractors website, which tells you everything which is needed to determine if the contractor has a good track record, is currently licensed and insured. The website also tells you if the contractor has any outstanding complaints which have not been resolved. This link is to the ROC Website. (Please Click Link) |
| 1.1 | GENERAL EXTERIOR SITE DRAINAGE Comments: Repair or Replace | ||||||||
| Drainage away from the foundation of a home is required for all
buildings and is very important, the drainage needs to be
corrected at all sides of the house so rain water flows away
from the house and toward the street.
See the attached photos for my suggestions to correct all the drainage concerns. Water deteriorates concrete foundations, attracts wood destroying insects from moisture saturated soil because of poor drainage, or no drainage at all. Just because most of the house is Masonry Block at the exterior does not mean anything with regard to stopping wood destroying insects, they will come into the house from cracks in the concrete slab the house is built on and begin to eat Interior Wood Framing and Sheetrock Paper (or any other cellulose building material), which is why it is SO important to correct all the drainage around the entire house and garage. The soil the house is built on, could be "Expansive Soil", which only soil tests could determine, but regardless, if expansive soils are present when water soaks into expansive soil it swells like a sponge, and could cause MAJOR damage to the concrete foundation by lifting it upward if the soil expanded from moisture. Have a Licensed Landscaping Contractor(s) give you repair estimates before you finalize any real estate transaction, the cost could-will be significant.
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| 1.2 | TREE OR VEGETATION NEXT TO THE BUILDING Comments: Repair or Replace | |||
Remove the tree growing next to the Pool Heater, and also at the
corner of the foundation north of the Pool Heater, trim any tree or
vegetation branches near or touching the house, the wind moving
the branches will damage the roof, siding, fascia, and eaves.
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| 1.3 | DRIVEWAY, PARKING LOT, WALKWAYS, PATIOS, ENTRYWAYS, CONDITION Comments: Inspected |
| The exterior hard surfaces were in normal condition at the time of
this inspection. Minor cracks in concrete are normal, considered
typical, cracks in hard surfaces are found at all properties.
As previously stated, the Brick Pavers left of the front door all need to be removed, the grade raised, the pavers reinstalled sloped so water drains away from the foundation and toward the street, presently they are sloped backwards, toward the house, as I stated previously in the Drainage Section of this report. |
| 1.4 | FENCE AND GATE(S), CONDITION Comments: Repair or Replace, Unsafe | |
| The Gate which was locked needs repairs made, a Self-Closing
Device is the most important item needed because there is a
Pool in the back yard, all Gates are required to have Self-Closing
Devices installed and operational so a child cannot get into the
back yard, into the Pool, and possibly drown.
There is wood to earth contact at the left side of the receiver (latch) portion of the gate, the wood should be at least 6-8 inches from soil (termite attractant), the masonry block is damaged at the top right side of the Gate, and the masonry support the Gate Latch is attached to is not fastened to the concrete footing below the support (if in fact there is one). Have a licensed contractor make the repairs.
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| 1.5 | LOW VOLTAGE LIGHTING Comments: Repair or Replace, Unsafe | ||
| The Low Voltage Landscaping Lighting needs to be replaced by a
Licensed Contractor, the Transformer and Electrical Installation
was installed by an amateur and is considered a safety hazard.
There is Exposed Romex Conductors (wires), electrical conduit not installed correctly, and the system is not Ground Fault Protected. The lights are broken, missing, falling apart, and the transformer does not function.
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Inspection Items
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| 2.0 | FOUNDATION TYPE; CONDITION Comments: Inspected |
| The foundation of this building is Concrete, no major concerns were visible at the time of inspection. Minor cracks are common in all concrete products and the condition of this foundation is considered typical or normal. |
| 2.1 | FLOOR TYPE; CONDITION Comments: Inspected |
| The floors in the building are Concrete. There are floor coverings present but there was no visual evidence of a concern such as major wall or ceiling cracks, which would tell me that a problem may exist. |
| 2.2 | EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR LOAD BEARING WALLS; TYPE; CONDITION Comments: Inspected |
| The Wall structure of the building is constructed of Masonry
Block and Wood Framing Materials.
The condition was acceptable with regard to the structural integrity of the Wall System. I did not witness any concerns at the exterior or interior such as large cracks which would tell me a concern is present. |
| 2.3 | CEILING MATERIAL; TYPE; CONDITION Comments: Inspected |
| The Ceilings in the building are constructed with Wood Framing Materials and finished with Sheetrock-Drywall. There was no evidence any concern is present structurally. |
| 2.4 | ROOF STRUCTURE TYPE; CONDITION Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace | ||
| Roof Structure of the building is constructed with Engineered
Wood Trusses-Rafters and Plywood Sheathing (roof decking).
The condition of the original framing materials was normal, I inspected the roof components while in the Attic, but alterations were made to the Engineered Wood Trusses at the rear of the house where a patio was converted to living space. At the rear of the house where the hole is in the ceiling, I believe this area was a rear patio at one time which was converted to living space, there is no insulation above this area when I looked using my ladder through the hole in the ceiling. I could see the roof trusses were reinforced with vertical 2x4 wood attached to the engineered trusses from the top chord, to the bottom chord, engineered roof trusses should not be altered without an engineered design, you should have a structural engineer review the alterations made to the trusses if the seller cannot provide documentation an engineered design was approved by the City of Phoenix.
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| 2.5 | POSTS, BEAMS, COLUMNS TYPE; CONDITION Comments: Inspected |
| There was no concern present with any visible Wood Post, Beam, or Column, which are load bearing components of the building (structurally). |
 |  |
Inspection Items
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| 3.0 | ROOF COVERINGS, TYPE, CONDITION Comments: Repair or Replace | |||||
| The roof system was inspected by walking it. There are
repairs needed to the Three Tab Fiberglass Shingles on the
house, many shingles have been "Face Nailed", there are also
shingles tabs blown off at the north side.
The low sloped portion of the roof at the front, and west side of the garage is not sloped correctly, I can see where rain water has ponded during-after a storm, the location at the front of the garage needs more of the same type of material (Fiberglass Asphalt Roll Roofing Material) installed in the low portion so rain water will flow toward the west, and than toward the south (the way the roof is currently sloped and designed). Have a licensed Roofing Contractor(s) give you repair estimates, the cost could-will be significant.
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| 3.1 | ROOF SHEATHING Comments: Inspected |
| The roof sheathing (Plywood) was inspected from inside the attic
where I could gain access and actually see it (limited view at
some locations). There was no concern present.
Walking on the roof the Plywood Sheathing felt stable. |
| 3.2 | ROOF FLASHINGS, DRIP EDGE FLASHING Comments: Repair or Replace | ||||||
| Metal Flashing should be installed at the front of the house where
the garage roof meets the house roof (pictures 5-6), and at the
east side wall where the low sloped roof meets the house-garage
roof, I could stick my Pen in the numerous holes which are
present, I could not determine if there is any Metal Flashing
installed now, but New Metal Flashing is needed to keep water
out of the building.
Have a Licensed Roofing Contractor give you repair estimate(s), the repair costs could-will be significant.
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| 3.3 | ROOF PENETRATIONS, PLUMBING VENTS, ATTIC VENTS, SKYLIGHTS, CHIMNEYS, AC-DUCTS, FLASHING CONDITION Comments: Repair or Replace | ||
| I recommend ALL roof penetrations be resealed (plumbing vent
pipes, bathroom, laundry ceiling fan vent pipes, etc). They also
need to be checked annually. The sun rapidly deteriorates the
asphalt base sealant.
All the Vents with Folded Metal Caps need two screws installed so the wind cannot blow them upward and allow rain water to enter the vents (which is happening now). I positioned the Vent Caps correctly before I left the roof but more screws are needed, have the roofing contractor make the necessary repairs.
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| 3.4 | ROOF PARAPET WALLS Comments: Repair or Replace | |
| Have a Contractor Seal all the Parapet Walls where the Low
Sloped Roof meets the Parapet Walls.
Have a Licensed Roofing Contractor apply a Reflective Roof Sealant to the entire Low Sloped Portion of the roof after the area of the garage roof is raised with more roofing material so rain water can flow correctly off the roof.
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| 3.5 | ROOF DRAINAGE SYSTEMS Comments: Not Tested, Informational | |
I highly recommend Roof Gutters be installed at the rear of the
house, currently when it rains hard, the Rain Water will land in
the Pool, which will include Pigeon Droppings and other debris
you do not want in the Pool Water.
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Inspection Items
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| 4.0 | DOOR BELL Comments: Inspected |
| The door bell operated today. |
| 4.1 | EXTERIOR WALLS, CONDITION Comments: Repair or Replace | ||||
| The exterior walls are Masonry Block, with Wood Framed Gable
Ends, and a small portion of wood framing where the double door
was added at the rear of the house.
An amateur installed Cement Stucco at the west gable, and also at the rear of the house, there are large Gaps I could stick my Pen in between the Cement Stucco and the Eave which needs to be sealed (by a contractor). Rain water and insects could get into the wall system. At the west side of the house near the Gate, a sewage cleanout cap was removed, the plug for the cleanout in the garage, the plug needs to be installed and the exterior cap fastened to the wall correctly.
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| 4.2 | EXTERIOR PAINTED SURFACES Comments: Repair or Replace | |||||
All exterior wood, sheetrock, and wood trim should be painted to
preserve the material for as long as possible.
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| 4.3 | SOFFITS, FASCIA, EAVES, TRIM Comments: Repair or Replace |
| Wood Fascia and Trim is beginning to dry rot from deferred
maintenance.
Caulk and Paint is recommended at all exterior wood surfaces to help stop the deterioration. |
| 4.4 | EXTERIOR DOORS AND WEATHER STRIPPING Comments: Repair or Replace | |||
| All doors to the exterior and garage need new weather stripping
installed to help keep outside air and insects out of the house.
The door from the garage to the laundry room needs to be replaced, there is an animal door installed which breaches the fire-resistant door capability. The door from the garage to the house does not have a floor threshold installed with weather stripping either, when you have the door replaced (which needs self closing hinges) have a floor threshold installed also. I highly recommend either replacing all the door knobs or have a Locksmith Re-Key the locks.
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| 4.5 | EXTERIOR WINDOWS AND FLASHINGS, INTERIOR CONDITIONS NOTED Comments: Repair or Replace, Unsafe | ||||||
| Windows are Single pane glass. The window in the bedroom
toward the northeast needs to be replaced, the window frame
operating system is broken which holds the window open.
The window is also excessively worn from age and usage, the window will not stay in the operating track. At least ONE window which opens needs to be installed in the Master bedroom, both south windows (the only windows in the bedroom) are both Stationary Type, a window which opens and closes needs to be installed by a Licensed Contractor so you could get out of the house from the bedroom in an emergency (fire). The "Minimum Size Allowable" so you could exit the house in an emergency and a Firefighter can gain access is: Not higher than 44 inches from the floor, 20 inches wide, and 24 inches in height. There are Three Panes of Glass broken (as of today) in the front windows of the house left of the front door, have the glass replaced. If you do not know a Trustworthy Window Repairman, or Installer, myself and many past clients have had Bud Wyatt from "Panoramic Window & Screen", a Licensed Contractor installed new windows in my house, he did not take advantage of me or past clients, and I considered him a professional, his phone number is: 602.695.3226
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| 4.6 | WINDOW FRAMES Comments: Inspected |
| The old Aluminum Window Frames are aged and worn from usage, but the windows did open, close, and latch today. The excessively worn window and frame in the bedroom toward the northeast was mentioned in the window section of this report. |
| 4.7 | EXTERIOR SHEETROCK CEILINGS, EXTERIOR CEILING FANS Comments: Inspected |
| Besides new paint needed at the front patio ceiling there was no other concerns present today. |
| 4.8 | EXTERIOR ELECTRICAL OUTLETS, GROUND FAULT CIRCUITS, LIGHTING Comments: Inspected, Unsafe, Informational |
| Exterior Electrical Receptacles and Lighting were tested, I
recommend you upgrade Exterior Receptacles to Ground Fault
Circuit Interrupters-GFCI's for safety reasons.
They may not have been required when this home was built but they are now, I am NOT performing a Code Inspection, I am simply explaining the upgrade is for safety, a GFCI will disconnect electrical current from the exterior receptacles if a fault occurs. |
INSULATION: Fiberglass Batts |
Inspection Items
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| 5.0 | ATTIC ACCESS LOCATION Comments: Inspected | |
Attic access was gained through a scuttle opening in the ceiling
with a ladder at the Garage.
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| 5.1 | INSULATION AND VAPOR RETARDERS, TYPE VISIBLE Comments: Repair or Replace | ||||
| There is Fiberglass Batt Insulation (8-10 inch) missing at various
locations, and falling from its intended position at other various
locations.
At the rear of the house where the hole is in the ceiling, I believe this area was a rear patio at one time which was converted to living space, there is NO insulation above this area. Have a Licensed Insulation Contractor install insulation (after all the electrical repairs are made) see "Exposed Wiring" section of this report.
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| 5.2 | ATTIC VENTILATION Comments: Inspected |
| There is Passive Ventilation for air to circulate in the attic, no
concern was present. Passive Ventilation is Gable Vents,
Stationary Roof Vents, Soffit Vents at the eaves, Roof Turbines
on the roof, etc, which allow air to circulate through the attic
which helps keep it cooler in the summer than if there was no
ventilation at all.
Shingles last longer when applied to an attic which has good ventilation, the sun, and heat from the attic they are attached to is what causes premature failure of the shingles. All the items listed above are not on your building, but you do have Passive Ventilation, there was no concern present today. |
| 5.3 | ROOF UNDERLAYMENT, FRAMING, VISIBLE Comments: Inspected | ||||
Roof framing was inspected while in the attic, there was no
concern at the time of this inspection other than the altered Roof
Trusses previously mentioned.
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| 5.4 | EXPOSED WIRING, CONDITION Comments: Unsafe | |||||
| There are Amateur wiring (conductors) spliced-connections
throughout the attic area, have a Licensed Electrician make all
the repairs before you add any insulation which is missing.
The wiring in the attic is considered a Fire Hazard the way it was configured by an amateur or handyman. All the electrical wiring should be repaired before you move into the house in my professional opinion.
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| 5.5 | BATHROOM CEILING VENTILATION DUCTS, DRYER VENT PIPES, FLUE PIPES Comments: Inspected, Informational |
| The flexible and ridged duct piping for Interior ventilation fans and Flue Vent Pipes were installed correctly in the attic and terminated above the roof as required (except the Dryer Vent - See Laundry Section of this report). |
| 5.6 | ATTIC FAN Comments: Informational |
| The attic does not have an Electric Attic Fan to remove hot air,
but I certainly recommend you have one installed, they help keep
the attic area much cooler and allow the roof shingles to last
longer, they help keep the attic heat from radiating to the interior
ceilings also, making the air conditioning system run more than it
normally would without a power fan.
Many homes in the Phoenix area are now having Attic Fans installed because of the low cost to operate one verses the savings in cooling costs for the interior of the building and they also extend the life of Roof Shingles by removing hot air from the attic. |
Inspection Items
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| 6.0 | MAIN WATER SHUTOFF DEVICE, LOCATION Comments: Inspected | |
The Main Water Shutoff Valve to turn off all water to the home is
located at the front left of the front doorway, the exterior plumbing
is Copper headed toward the water meter.
|
| 6.1 | ELECTRICAL BONDING WIRE AND CLAMP Comments: Inspected |
| The electrical system is bonded to the water pipe at the Water Heater in the garage correctly. |
| 6.2 | INTERIOR WATER SUPPLY MATERIAL, DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM, AND SUPPORTS Comments: Inspected |
| The interior water supply piping is Copper where I can actually
see the water pipes. There was no visible concern with the pipes
or supports in the building where I could see them.
The water supply pipes feeding water from Valves to Fixtures is Copper, Braided Rubber, PB Plastic, and Stainless Steel. |
| 6.3 | INTERIOR DRAIN, WASTE AND VENT PIPE MATERIAL, AND SUPPORTS Comments: Inspected |
| Interior drains and the drainage vent pipes are constructed of Iron Pipe, ABS and PVC plastic piping, supported correctly where I can actually see them. |
| 6.4 | WATER HEATER(S) AND SYSTEM Comments: Repair or Replace | |||
| Water heater is electric (located in the garage, Reliance
Brand, 50 gallon, 1998). Plumbing connections were
consistent with current building standards but the Electrical
connection is not.
The bottom (plastic) drain valve to flush or empty the tank needs to be replaced, it is leaking and will not stop leaking after I tried to close it further. The valve looks like it has been leaking for a long time, the bottom of the tank is rusted which actually does not affect the actual water tank itself which is inside the exterior housing. The electrical conduit at the top of the tank feeding electrical conductors is not installed correctly, the conduit is pulled from the top of the tank or was never installed correctly to begin with, regardless, have a electrician repair the Electrical Conduit and have a Plumber replace the Valve.
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| 6.5 | GAS METER AND SHUTOFF Comments: Informational | |
The Natural Gas Meter is not on the property, but there is Piping
to install Natural Gas. The piping for the Gas Meter is at the right
side of the garage.
|
| 6.6 | SEWER CLEANOUTS Comments: Informational |
| The sanitary sewer cleanouts are not visible. They are probably buried in the front yard, the City of Phoenix could locate them for you, which I recommend in case you ever needed to access them to have the Main Sewage Pipes professionally cleaned or Video Scanned by a Licensed Plumber. |
| 6.7 | EXTERIOR HOSE FAUCETS Comments: Inspected, Unsafe | |
| Hose Bibs (faucets) functioned correctly today. But I highly
recommend having Anti-Siphon Valves installed at the end of
the Hose Bibs.
Anti Siphon Valves prevent water from a hose being siphoned back into the domestic water plumbing system. For an example, if there was a garden hose attached to a Hose Bib without an Anti Siphon Device and there was a Pesticide or Fertilizer (as two examples) the chemicals and water could be siphoned back into the drinking-domestic water supply in the building which would certainly contaminate the drinking-domestic water without the Valve present. They are safety devices which all Hose Bibs should have them installed.
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| 6.8 | WATER SOFTENER Comments: Informational |
| There is a "Copper Water Pipe Loop" in the main water supply lines for the house to install a water softener in the garage if you ever wanted one in the future. |
Inspection Items
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| 7.0 | MAIN ELECTRICAL METER AND DISTRIBUTION PANEL LOCATION Comments: Inspected |
| Main electrical Service Meter Panel and Distribution Panel are located at the right side front of the home. |
| 7.1 | MAIN ELECTRICAL PANEL AND DISTRIBUTION PANEL CONDITION Comments: Repair or Replace, Unsafe | |
| The Distribution Panel Cover is not clearly labeled, marking what
circuit breaker controls which circuit. All circuits are required to
be clearly labeled in a electrical distribution panel for your safety
in case you needed to turn off a certain circuit breaker in an
emergency.
Blank(s) (plastic protectors) need to be installed on the panel cover to prevent accidental contact with the Hot Bus of the electrical system. Have a Licensed Electrician make the repairs for you.
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| 7.2 | MAIN ELECTRICAL SERVICE CONDUCTORS, TYPE, AMPERAGE AND VOLTAGE Comments: Inspected |
| The main Electrical Service Conductors providing power from the
municipal supplier are Underground.
The type of conductors from the Meter Panel to the Distribution Panel are Copper rated at 120/240 Volt, 200 Amp. single phase. |
| 7.3 | MAIN OVERLOAD DEVICE AND THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GROUNDING Comments: Inspected | |||
| The Main Overload-Disconnect Circuit Breaker to turn All the
electrical power off to the entire home is a 200 Amp. single throw
Circuit Breaker (location picture #1).
A Copper Electrode Ground Conductor for this electrical system is visible in Main Service Panel, correctly installed and presumed to terminate to the foundation. The exact termination point is not visible because the conductor is installed inside the wall cavity. Grounding was tested at receptacles in the building, there was no concern present.
|
| 7.4 | BRANCH CIRCUIT WIRE TYPE AND CIRCUIT BREAKERS Comments: Inspected |
| Branch circuit wires are Copper 120/240 Volt. The overload
devices the wires are connected to are Circuit Breakers.
Branch circuit wiring is installed correctly in the distribution panel, there are no concerns present with regard to the wire compatibility (size) to the circuit breakers the conductors are attached to. |
HEAT PUMPS: Package Type Roof Mounted (Electric) |
Inspection Items
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| 8.0 | AIR CONDITIONING EQUIPMENT AND AIR HANDLER(S) Comments: Inspected | |||
| The home has one Goodman 1991 Package Electric Heat Pump
on the roof. The system was tested in the cooling mode, supply
temperature from various registers was 48-56 degrees (average),
which is considered normal.
Testing the system in the Heating mode, the supply temperature on average was 99-107 degrees, also considered normal. Package Type Electric Heat Pumps heat or cool a home by switching the mode of the system at the thermostat in the house they operate with Electricity only.
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| 8.1 | CONDENSATE DRAIN LINES, SYSTEM OVERFLOW PAN AT THE EQUIPMENT Comments: Inspected | ||
| The condensate drain was correctly installed from the equipment
to a drain pipe on the roof below the unit.
The pipe needs to be sealed when the roof is repaired which was addressed in the "Roofing Section of this report".
|
| 8.2 | ELECTRICAL DISCONNECTS, WIRING, CONDUIT, FOR THE HEATING AND COOLING Comments: Repair or Replace | |
| The electrical conduit is pulled from the Electrical Disconnect at
the equipment on the roof, have a electrician repair it.
The Electrical Disconnect Panel Box is deteriorated with rust, when the electrician repairs the conduit ask if he thinks this should be replaced.
|
| 8.3 | DISTRIBUTION DUCTS, REGISTERS, PIPING, SUPPORTS, FILTERS Comments: Repair or Replace | ||||||
| There is conditioned air escaping at the Return and Supply
Duct attached to the Heat Pump on the roof, the entire metal
duct needs to be sealed correctly by a HVAC Specialist.
Where the A/C Duct enters the roof, it needs to be Flashed-Sealed so water cannot get into the attic, have the Roofing Contractor make the repair. The distribution ducts in the attic are both Flexible, and Ridged Metal, there is Insulation and Vapor Barrier Missing at numerous locations at the ducts throughout the attic, have an HVAC Specialist make the repairs. The heat from the attic is heating the ducts at many locations, which causes the duct to supply warmer air than if the ducts were insulated correctly. (Plus wasting electricity because the supply air is warmer than it would be if the ducts were insulated properly from the hot attic, thus, the system will be turning on and off more frequently). The Return Air Filter (20x30x1) Disposable Type is at the Hall Ceiling and should be changed now and monthly.
|
| 8.4 | THERMOSTAT(S) Comments: Inspected |
| Thermostat is located in the main hallway, properly fastened to the wall and operated as intended in the Heating and Cooling Mode. |
| 8.5 | DUCTS & REGISTER VENTS Comments: Inspected |
| There was conditioned supply air in all habitable rooms from the Air Conditioning Equipment, with exception to the room which was added at the rear of the house where the French Doors are located, but the large archway into the room does not facilitate the need for a conditioning register vent. |
Inspection Items
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| 9.0 | FLOORS Comments: Inspected |
| The condition of the floor covering such as carpeting and vinyl
should be determined by you, everyone has their own opinion.
The floor coverings are serving their purpose to cover the concrete slab under them. |
| 9.1 | WALLS, CEILINGS Comments: Repair or Replace | ||||
| The sheetrock walls and ceilings are in typical condition for the
age. You will find minor shrinkage and settlement cracks in all
buildings.
There are numerous sheetrock anomalies in the house, holes in bedroom walls, etc; but nothing which would be a significant cost to repair (sheetrock is inexpensive), typical of a house with deferred maintenance. The hole in the ceiling in the added room at the rear of the house needs to be repaired, and the bedroom closet needs the wall repaired where plumbing work was done but more plumbing work is needed (see bathroom section). You should decide whether the repairs are considered significant to you before you close escrow.
|
| 9.2 | WALL CABINETS Comments: Inspected |
| There was no concern present, but cabinets are aged and worn. |
| 9.3 | INTERIOR TRIM, BASEBOARD Comments: Repair or Replace | ||
| The baseboard trim was functional where it is presently located
at the base of interior walls, new baseboard trim will be needed in
the bedroom closet where the plumbing repairs were made and a
small piece is missing in a bedroom (baseboard trim is
inexpensive).
The baseboard trim is also moisture damaged in back of the Refrigerator, but could probably just be painted.
|
| 9.4 | INTERIOR DOORS Comments: Repair or Replace | ||
| There is so much Graffiti (paint-crayons-markers, small holes) on
the bedroom doors I could not say for sure paint will cover the
finish, interior doors are really not that expensive if they need to
be replaced, typically about $60.00 each for the door itself, not
the casing and jams included.
You should consider the cost of new doors if they cannot be painted. Door Stops are recommended also, to prevent holes in the sheetrock from door knobs.
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| 9.5 | CLOSET DOORS, CLOSET SHELVES Comments: Repair or Replace | ||
| There are Closet Doors off the tracks, missing, and some have
Graffiti on them.
Bottom Door Guides are recommended for all the closet doors so they stay positioned straight-vertical when pushed back and forth. The right side interior door in the master closet will not latch when closed, the strike plate needs to be adjusted.
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| 9.6 | MASTER BEDROOM CLOSET Comments: Inspected |
| There was no concern present. |
| 9.7 | CEILING FANS Comments: Repair or Replace, Unsafe | ||
| Ceiling fans wobble, light kits are broken, some are loose at the
ceilings, extension cords are being used at some fans for
permanent wiring which is unsafe.
It is also questionable whether they were installed correctly after inspecting the condition and methods used to add additional electrical conductors, etc, throughout the attic, garage. I highly recommend having a electrician remove the fans from the ceilings and make sure they are all wired correctly and attached to wood framing with the proper supports.
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| 9.8 | ELECTRICAL WIRING, OUTLETS, SWITCHES, AND LIGHTING Comments: Repair or Replace, Unsafe | |||||||||||
| I HIGHLY recommend replacing every electrical receptacle in the
house, they have been painted over, are loose in the walls,
cracked, and probably have been loose for a long time which can
cause the conductors to become loose which creates a Fire
Hazard.
Bathroom Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters "GFCI's" are wired backwards (incorrectly) and do not "Trip" Disconnect Electricity properly when tested, interior light fixtures are falling from the ceilings (south room as one example, the room addition where the hole is in the ceiling). Have a Licensed Electrician(s) give you repair-replacement estimates before you close escrow.
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| 9.9 | BEDROOM ARC FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER RECEPTACLES Comments: Not Tested, Informational |
| Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI's) are not installed in the Main
Electrical Distribution Panel connected to the bedroom wall
Electrical Receptacles.
I recommend you consider upgrading to AFCI's. They are a current electrical requirement in all homes built after 2002, since this home was built before that it is not required but recommended for the safety of the occupants. A electrician could install them for your safety. AFCI disconnect electrical current to the receptacle much like a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, if a "Fault" (lamp cord fails as one example) occurs the Circuit Breaker will "Trip", disconnect electricity to the circuit. |
| 9.10 | SMOKE DETECTORS, CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS Comments: Unsafe |
| I highly recommend replacing all the Smoke Detectors, even if
the test button makes an audible noise when pushed does not
mean the device will actually detect smoke. It is recommended
by the National Fire Protection Association they be replaced
every 8 years, they are inexpensive and save lives.
I also recommend installing them in all the bedrooms, when this home was built they were not required, now they are. |
Inspection Items
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| 10.0 | BATHROOM GENERAL INFORMATION Comments: Repair or Replace, Informational |
| In older homes you should consider replacing the Old Gate
Valves with new Ball Valves at the sinks and toilets, generally
these old valves will not stop water if necessary and many
times will break or begin to leak when operated. (I know from
past experience, the valves fail)
Old Rubber, PB Plastic, Copper, or Stainless Steel Supply Lines feeding water from the Valves to the Fixtures should be upgraded also, with New Reinforced Water Supply Lines, so a leak is less likely to occur in the future, they are fairly inexpensive compared to what it costs to have water damage repaired in a building. This is preventative maintenance which is required in all older homes. Old Iron Drain Pipes should be replaced by a Plumber with new ABS or PVC Plastic, Iron Pipes rot from the inside outward. I also HIGHLY recommend having all the main drain pipes under the Concrete Slab Video Scanned BEFORE you close escrow, it looks like tree roots, or moss is growing in the Hall Bathroom Tub Drain (drained slow also), I tried to removed the organic matter with a screwdriver which looks like moss or tree roots from the drain, but could not. If there is an issue with any drain pipes under the concrete slab of the house the cost to make repairs could be significant. If professional Cleaning is needed by a Licensed Plumber the costs could also be significant. I am informing you of this concern so you know the possible significance of this issue. |
| 10.1 | TUB SHOWER UNIT(S) Comments: Repair or Replace | ||||
| The hall bathroom tub is leaking water at the drain, I could see
the active leak at the hole made in the bedroom closet wall where
other plumbing repairs were made.
Have a Licensed Plumber make the repair. I also HIGHLY recommend having all the main drain pipes under the slab Video Scanned BEFORE you close escrow, it looks like tree roots, or moss are growing in the Hall Bathroom Tub Drain (drained slow), I tried to removed the organic matter which looks like moss or tree roots from the drain but could not. If there is an issue with any drain pipes under the concrete slab of the house the cost to make repairs could be significant.
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| 10.2 | WALK-IN SHOWER(S) Comments: Repair or Replace | |
| The Master Bathroom Walk-In Shower should have operable
doors installed, shower curtains generally do not keep water in
the fixture correctly causing floor and wall moisture damage
eventually.
The Soap-Dish-Shampoo holder on the north surround is missing, they are available at any Home Improvement Store and a Tile Specialist could install it.
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| 10.3 | SINKS, COUNTERTOPS, CABINETS Comments: Repair or Replace | ||
| The Drain Stop is broken at the hall bathroom sink and flexible
drain pipe is being used which is not recommended for any
residential plumbing. (plugs easily)
Both Drain Stops need repair at the Master Bathroom Sinks. Have a Licensed Plumber make the repairs.
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| 10.4 | DRAINAGE PIPES Comments: Inspected | |||
There were no active leaks at the time of this inspection.
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| 10.5 | WATER VALVES AND SUPPLY LINES Comments: Inspected | |
There were no active leaks at the time of this inspection.
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| 10.6 | TOILETS Comments: Repair or Replace | ||||
| Both Toilets are leaking water where the Tank is attached to the
Bowls, new seals are needed.
The Hall Bathroom Toilet is not attached to the floor properly, I recommended a new wax seal be installed also. Have a Licensed Plumber make the repairs.
|
| 10.7 | TOWEL HOLDERS & HAND DRYERS Comments: Inspected |
| There was no concern present today. |
| 10.8 | WATER PRESSURE, AND DRAINAGE FUNCTIONAL FLOW Comments: Inspected |
| The water pressure in the bathrooms was normal. The drains emptied correctly except the hall bathroom Tub/Shower as previously stated. |
| 10.9 | ELECTRICAL OUTLETS, GROUND FAULT CIRCUITS, LIGHTING Comments: Inspected | |
Ground fault circuit
interrupters were tested in bathrooms, repair-replacement is
needed as previously stated. The lighting functioned properly.
|
| 10.10 | CEILING EXHAUST VENTILATION Comments: Inspected |
| Bathroom ceiling ventilation fans were functional. |
| 10.11 | BATHROOM WINDOWS Comments: Inspected |
| Worn from age, but functional. |
| 10.12 | MIRROR Comments: Inspected |
| Functional. |
| 10.13 | MEDICINE CABINETS Comments: Inspected |
| There were no concerns present. |
Inspection Items
|
| 11.0 | GENERAL INFORMATION Comments: Inspected, Informational |
| In older homes you should consider replacing the Old Gate
Valves with new Ball Valves under the Sink(s), Dishwasher,
Refrigerator water supply, etc, generally these old gate valves will
not stop water if necessary and many times will break or begin to
leak when operated. (I know from past experience, the valves and
supply lines fail)
Old Rubber, PB Plastic, Copper, or Stainless Steel Supply Lines feeding water from the Valves to the Fixtures should be upgraded also, with New Reinforced Rubber-Plastic Water Supply Lines, so a leak is less likely to occur in the future, they are fairly inexpensive compared to what it costs to have water damage repaired in a building. This is preventative maintenance which is required in all older homes. |
| 11.1 | KITCHEN CABINETS AND COUNTERTOPS Comments: Repair or Replace | ||||
| The small Island type Countertop is not attached to the Base
Cabinets.
The Cabinet doors do not stay closed, the hinges are worn out, replacement is recommended. Many Drawer Guides are worn from age and the drawers do not function correctly, I recommend you have a contractor replace the guides, drawer rollers, or both. There is past moisture damage at the sink base cabinet, paint is recommended.
|
| 11.2 | KITCHEN ELECTRICAL OUTLETS, GROUND FAULT CIRCUITS, LIGHTING Comments: Repair or Replace, Informational | ||
| All accessible Electrical Receptacles were tested. Lighting
functioned correctly but the Plastic Light Cover is cracked.
I recommend upgrading the Electrical Receptacles at the sink area to Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters "GFCIs". This is a safety concern and present standard.
|
| 11.3 | KITCHEN SINK AND FAUCET Comments: Repair or Replace | ||
| The faucet is not attached to the sink, leaks water at the swivel
portion when operated, the screen is plugged with mineral
deposits, replacement is recommended.
The Spray Attachment is not installed correctly, the bottom portion is hanging inside the sink base cabinet. Have a Licensed Plumber make the repairs.
|
| 11.4 | SINK DRAINAGE PIPES Comments: Repair or Replace | ||
Water is leaking at the drain pipe attachment to the Food
Disposer, the Food Disposer does not function using the wall
switch, the receptacle is in back of the dishwasher, so I could
not test for electrical power to the receptacle without removing
the Dishwasher.
|
| 11.5 | SINK WATER VALVE AND SUPPLY PIPING Comments: Repair or Replace | ||
| There were no leaks at the time of this inspection, but I highly
recommend replacing the old PB Plastic Supply Line feeding
the Dishwasher, PB Plastic has a high failure rate.
The old Gate Valves and Water Supply Lines feeding the Faucet and Dishwasher should be upgraded to New Ball Valves and Reinforced Rubber Supply Lines, if one of these old gate valves or supply lines failed when someone was not at home or sleeping, extensive water damage to the home would occur. New water valves and supply lines to every fixture in the house is highly recommended, the cost far outweighs the water damage repair costs which would occur if failure ever happened. Old Gate Valves will usually NOT stop water if used, and many times the valves break when you turn them or they begin to leak. Mineral Deposits build up in the valves and corrosion occurs because of their age, since they are not used (exercised) daily when they are finally used to try and stop water they FAIL, which requires turning off all the water to the house until a Licensed Plumber can arrive and make repairs.
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| 11.6 | FOOD DISPOSER Comments: Repair or Replace | |
| The Food Disposer would not function using the wall switch,
replacement is recommended.
I could not see the Electrical Receptacle the Disposer is plugged into which is behind the Dishwasher but there is electrical current at the cord to the Disposer when the switch is turned on, therefore you should expect to have a Licensed Plumber replace it. There is an active water leak at the pipe connection to the Disposer so do not use the side of the sink the Disposer is attached to until repair-replacement is completed by a Plumber.
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| 11.7 | WATER PRESSURE AND DRAINAGE FUNCTIONAL FLOW Comments: Repair or Replace |
| The water pressure was low at the Kitchen Faucet, I do not know
if the Old Gate Valves are partially closed, the screen at the
faucet spigot is plugged with mineral deposits.
I do not turn any valves to find out if this might be the problem because they usually break or begin to leak, therefore have a Licensed Plumber make the necessary repairs when he is at the home, there are numerous plumbing repairs needed throughout the house. |
| 11.8 | DISHWASHER Comments: Repair or Replace | ||
| The Dishwasher was leaking water underneath the Appliance, I
do not know if the pump, water supply line, or drain pipe is
leaking. The Dishwasher would need to be removed from under
the countertop by a Plumber to find the leak.
Replacement might be necessary so keep this in mind the cost of a new Dishwasher and installation by a Licensed Plumber.
|
| 11.9 | RANGE AND OVEN Comments: Inspected, Unsafe | |
| Range and Oven are 240 Volt Electric. The appliance functioned
properly.
The Range-Oven needs an Anti-Tip Bracket installed at the base (the bracket attaches to the floor and one leg of the appliance slides into the bracket) so a child cannot get hurt or killed from standing on an open oven door and tipping the appliance over. Approximately over 250 children are burned or have died every year because this simple device was not installed to hold the appliance in place.
|
| 11.10 | RANGE VENTILATION Comments: Repair or Replace | ||
| The Range Ventilation Fan is vented to the exterior of the house
and operated today, the metal grease screen is missing which is
supposed to be positioned in front of the fan, they are available at
Home Improvement Stores.
You could have a Microwave which has an exterior vented fan at the base of the appliance installed if you wanted, the space at the cabinet is the correct length for the typical size Microwave.
|
| 11.11 | MICROWAVE Comments: Not Tested |
| Not present. |
| 11.12 | REFRIGERATOR Comments: Repair or Replace | |
| The Water Valve in back of the Refrigerator is leaking water, the
old Gate Valve needs to be replaced.
The Refrigerator was not plugged in when I arrived today, I do not know if it conveys with the sale of the property but the Refrigerator portion did not function today when I plugged it in to the receptacle, the Freezer portion did operate.
|
Inspection Items
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| 12.0 | PLUMBING CONNECTIONS FOR WASHER Comments: Inspected, Informational | |
Plumbing connections for a washer are present, but I recommend
upgrading the old Gate Valves to new Ball Valves.
|
| 12.1 | WASHER-DRYER, ELECTRICAL OR GAS AVAILABLE Comments: Inspected | |
The electrical power supply to operate a dryer is 120/240 Volt
electricity.
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| 12.2 | DRYER VENTING Comments: Repair or Replace, Unsafe | ||
| The Dryer Vent which terminates above the roof of the house
needs to be Professionally Cleaned-Vacuumed, there is also a
Lint Collector in the attic the portion of the vent pipe is connected
to from the Laundry Room which also needs to be opened and
cleaned.
The Vent Pipe from the Lint-Collector to above the roof where it terminates is Flexible Type Vent Pipe which needs to be replaced with Ridged Metal Vent-Duct Piping. Have a contractor replace the Flexible to Ridged. If you do not know a Duct Cleaning Company, I have used Vince Divarco from "Ductz" at 623.412.2555 a trustworthy licensed contractor.
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| 12.3 | ELECTRICAL OUTLETS, GROUND FAULT CIRCUITS, LIGHTING Comments: Inspected |
| Receptacles and switches were tested, no concern was present. |
| 12.4 | ROOM EXHAUST VENTILATION Comments: Inspected |
| Laundry room has an exterior vented ceiling fan which operated properly when inspected. |
| 12.5 | DRAINAGE PIPE Comments: Not Tested |
| Not tested, there was no washing machine in the laundry room to determine if the drain pipe actually does drain correctly. |
Inspection Items
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| 13.0 | WALLS, CEILINGS Comments: Repair or Replace | |
| The condition of the garage was normal. I do not report usual
wear and tear of areas of the home which are not lived in but the
hole someone cut for an electrical switch or receptacle next to
the Door Opener Button needs the sheetrock repaired
There cannot be ANY Holes in a wall to a house with an attached Garage, the hole breaches the one hour fire-rating sheetrock provides, if a fire ever occurred in the Garage, your homeowners insurance might deny the claim for this simple reason.
|
| 13.1 | FLOOR Comments: Inspected |
| Minor cracks are normal (typical), no concern is present today. |
| 13.2 | GARAGE ATTIC ACCESS Comments: Inspected |
| Attic access is at the Garage Ceiling. |
| 13.3 | GARAGE DOOR MATERIAL AND CONDITION Comments: Repair or Replace |
| Garage door is Composite Wood, which is deteriorated from
age, replacement is recommended.
If you do not know a Garage Door Company in Phoenix, I suggest Heritage Garage Doors, they are a Licensed Contractor who does professional installations and takes the old door with them when the job is completed. Many of my past clients have used Heritage, I have never heard a complaint, I do not receive any compensation whatsoever from the company, they are the only trustworthy Garage Door Company I know. But you should get replacement estimates from at least three contractors before choosing any contractor. Always remember to check all contractors license and possible complaint history at the Arizona Registrar of Contractors website. |
| 13.4 | GARAGE DOOR OPERATING TRACKS AND DOOR ROLLERS Comments: Repair or Replace | ||
The Rollers are worn-out, the bearing are no longer useful, I
recommend replacing the entire Door which comes with all the
components needed.
|
| 13.5 | GARAGE DOOR OPENER(s) Comments: Repair or Replace | ||
| I could not determine if the Auto-Opener does function correctly,
the rollers are so worn out the door kept jamming, I had to open it
manually, and close it manually.
The Door Opener Button is not wired correctly, an amateur installed electrical switches next to the opener button for unknown reasons, have the Garage Door Specialist or Electrician wire the Door Opener Button correctly.
|
| 13.6 | GARAGE DOOR TRIM Comments: Repair or Replace | |
The garage door trim is broken and deteriorated at the exterior, I
recommend you have new door trim installed.
|
| 13.7 | ELECTRICAL RECEPTACLES, LIGHTING Comments: Repair or Replace, Informational |
| Electrical Receptacles and Switches in the garage are not wired
correctly as previously stated.
You should also consider upgrading the Receptacles to Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters is recommended (current electrical standard). |
Inspection Items
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Inspection Items
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| 15.0 | POOL BASIC CONDITION Comments: Repair or Replace | |||||||||
| The Entire Pool (itself), Plumbing, Pumps, Gas Water Heater,
Electrical Equipment-Timer, Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters,
Electrical Bonding, Light, Pool Plaster, need to be repaired by a
Licensed Pool Company.
The entire system has not been utilized for a long time. I did turn on the Pumps manually to determine if the motors functioned, the left pump motor will not operate. The cost to make all the necessary repairs will be very significant in my professional opinion. Get several repair estimates from Licensed Contractors BEFORE you close escrow.
|
| 15.1 | POOL FENCE Comments: Unsafe |
| I recommend a pool fence be installed. |
| 15.2 | POOL DECK Comments: Repair or Replace |
| Pool deck has cracks present, sealing the cracks is recommended. |
| 15.3 | SURFACE WALLS VISIBLE AND ACCESSIBLE Comments: Repair or Replace |
| Have at least Three Licensed Contractors give you repair quotes. |
| 15.4 | PERMANENT ACCESSORIES CONDITION (Ladders, Steps, Rails and Diving board) Comments: Repair or Replace |
| Diving boards are the number two cause of Pool injuries, child drowning is number one, which is why I always recommend a Pool Fence be installed around the Pool, and Diving Boards be removed. |
| 15.5 | SPA Comments: Repair or Replace |
| There was no water in the Spa and the Plaster is deteriorated which will need to be repaired. |
| 15.6 | PIPING Comments: Repair or Replace |
| I would expect to have repairs made. |
| 15.7 | VALVES Comments: Repair or Replace |
| Repairs are probably needed, have a Licensed Pool Specialist make all the necessary repairs. |
| 15.8 | PUMP FOR VACUUM OR CLEANING Comments: Repair or Replace |
| Repairs are probably needed, I could not get the left pump motor to function. |
| 15.9 | POOL SWEEP Comments: Repair or Replace |
| Not present, but are usually between $400-$800.00 depending on the quality. |
| 15.10 | PUMP STRAINER BASKET Comments: Repair or Replace |
| The strainer basket is missing. |
| 15.11 | FILTER Comments: Repair or Replace |
| The Filter will need to be serviced, this is a Sand Type Filter. |
| 15.12 | CHLORINE AND CHEMICAL NEEDS Comments: Repair or Replace |
| There is no water in the Pool. |
| 15.13 | ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT Comments: Repair or Replace |
| Repairs are needed by a Licensed Electrician, generally the company you contract with provides a Licensed Electrician to make all the necessary repairs which are needed. |
| 15.14 | POOL HEATERS Comments: Repair or Replace |
| The Natural Gas Pool Water Heater will need to be serviced to determine if in fact it does function, if the Heater needs to be replaced expect the cost to be significant (over $1,000.00). |
| 15.15 | POOL LIGHT Comments: Repair or Replace |
| I would have the Pool Light replaced since there is no water in the Pool and it is probably the original light. |
| 15.16 | POOL WATER AERATOR Comments: Repair or Replace |
| The Plastic Aerator is broken off at the edge of the Pool Deck, replacement will be necessary. |
 Inspect Arizona Companies, Inc.
10599 E. Betony Dr. |
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Customer |
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Property Address |
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This summary shall not contain recommendations for routine upkeep of a system or component to keep it in proper functioning condition or recommendations to upgrade or enhance the function, efficiency, or safety of the building.
This Summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of concern to the customer. It is recommended that the customer read the complete report.
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| 2. STRUCTURAL LOAD BEARING COMPONENTS AND BUILDING MATERIALS USED | |||||||||
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| 3. ROOF MATERIAL TYPE AND CONDITION | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| 4. EXTERIOR OF BUILDING, MATERIALS USED AND CONDITION | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| 5. ATTIC, CEILING, INSULATION, AND VENTILATION | ||||||||||||||||||
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| 6. PLUMBING SYSTEMS OF THE BUILDING | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| 8. AIR CONDITIONING AND HEATING EQUIPMENT | ||||||||||||||||||
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| 13. GARAGE, WAREHOUSE, DOORS, AUTO-OPENERS | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| 15. SWIMMING POOLS, SPAS AND EQUIPMENT | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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ANY ITEMS IN THE REPORT WHICH NEED TO BE REPAIRED OR REPLACED HAVE A LICENSED CONTRACTOR DO THE WORK, HANDYMEN ARE GENERALLY NOT LICENSED, AND DO NOT HAVE TO GUARANTEE THEIR WORK LIKE A LICENSED CONTRACTOR IS REQUIRED TO BY ARIZONA LAW.
Please Click this link above for more information.
Any Item in this report I use my own professional opinion being a Licensed Home Inspector and contractor in the past, when I mention SIGNIFICANT, I am referring to costing you probably MORE or close to $1,000.00 to repair or replace.
Inspecting this home it is evident an Amateur did much Handyman work to the house, especially electrical work which in my professional opinion are nothing short of a Fire Hazard. Have a Licensed Electrician(s) look over the entire electrical system and give you repair estimate(s) before you close escrow, the cost could-will be significant.
The Pool has been neglected, have a Licensed Pool Contractor(s) give you repair estimates before you close escrow, the cost could-will be significant.
The garage door should be replaced, the cost depending on what you consider significant, but my company considers $1,000.00 as significant, therefore get garage door replacement and installation costs before you close escrow.
The roof needs work, especially at the low sloped portion in front, and toward the west of the building, the cost could-will be significant.
You should always try to get at least three estimates to have repairs-replacements performed, prices vary, therefore it is wise to get three estimates, and make sure you look at the contractors past complaints (if any) at the Arizona Registrar of Contractors website, which tells you everything which is needed to determine if the contractor has a good track record, is currently licensed and insured.
The website also tells you if the contractor has any outstanding complaints which have not been resolved.
This link is to the ROC Website. (Please Click Link)